what is a wood finger joint ?
what is a finger joint board? The good quality melamine mdf finger jointed. is a simpler wood joints version of the dovetail joint. and both high quality pine finger used to hold the sides of a comb joint box together. whether wood joinery wood finger is a big mdf board blanket chest. or a little butt joint cabinet construction drawer.
The finger joint doesn’t lock the primed finger pieces fit together. like joint pine fancier particle board cousin. but pine spruce makes a strong joint when you add glue. And since all its angles are 90°, it is much easier to make. wood joined contact supplier commonly used to make furniture like different types. making box cabinet construction. jewellery boxes. extremely strong sturdy framesm, box joint .
You can make finger joints on a router table or tablesaw. but you need some sort of jig to hold the corner joints pieces upright. with a key of some kind that sits in one notch while you cut the next one. This ensures that the fingers and spaces are exactly identical. so everything comes together .
A finger joint or comb joint is a composite panel. woodworking joint. made by precision cutting a set of complementary rectangular cuts. in two pieces of high pressure wood. which are then pressure laminate glued. To visualize a printable version interlocking fingers. the interlocking fingers of your hands at a ninety degree angle. hence the name "finger joint."
It is stronger than a butt or lap joint, and often contributes to the aesthetics of the two pieces or one pieces. The famous wood fiber finger joints is home depot( please review on there site). joint lumber home depot wood products. also have high quality melamine medium faced mdf . wood grain particle board . melamine wood outdoor furniture.
finger joint wood advantages and disadvantages
Finger Joint Wood Pros
The strength of finger joint wood is good. and finger joint wood is stronger than conventional dimension lumber.
The chances of warping and twisting is less on the finger joint.
The pieces of finger joint wood pieces are straight and true. Any type of brow and crook absorbed in the joint wood.
It made up of small pieces of high-quality wood ensuring . the end product is always of premium quality.
Finger Joint Wood cons
The finger joint wood is not so durable than the other wood like peak wood and need to refinish. after a short period of time.
The finger joint wood can damaged by water. because it is not a water- resistance wood, so take good care of it.
We use finger-jointed studs for many reasons. For starters, they’re straighter. And they’re a better use of material because less wood is being wasted to manufacture them. Finally, they’re more cost effective.
When we first started seeing finger-jointed studs, there might be two or three pieces in a 2X4, but over the years. the individual pieces have gotten shorter and shorter. The lumber companies are using every last bit of wood and not throwing anything away. It’s a good practice. And these studs are strong for a vertical load.
The thing with finger-joints though is they can crooked. and you’ll see one piece a quarter inch out from another one. It can be harder to get a smooth wall. Generally, before we sheet rock we come in with a straight edge and if it’s bowed we use a skill saw and angle-cut it. And then we drive a nail in and pull it back over. We’ve even had to take out entire studs before. The ones in this project look good though.
what is a finger joint used for
finger-joint board door frame
finger joint wood doors made using superior quality 100%seasoned wood. finger-joint board door frame assures durability. These are 100% wood joints doors and ensure there is no movement or warping problems. We can supply all solid wood doors pre-hung in their frames for easy installation
finger joint uses - flooring
Finger jointed hardwood flooring is a commom wood floor style in East Asia & Europe Market. Finger joint solid wood floor. produced by selecting small wood strips with 45-85mm width. 250mm-750mm length in average and joint as a whole wood floor board by special equipment.
The prominent advantage of finger joint panel flooring is the raw timber material. can used and less small wood board offcut occurs. But finger jointed wood floor board is much more stable in high traffic area. or heating ground because the floor board. has less internal compress force comparing with traditional single hardwood plank .
finger joint boxes
finger joint box is a very strong way to join boards together because there is so much surface area for gluing. Plus it looks great on your projects. There are a lot of terrific adjustable jigs you can buy. or build that will allow you to create box joints of all different sizes. and if you plan on making a LOT of projects with box joints, a dedicated machine makes sense. But chances are, you only need to make an occasional box joint. In this article and video. I’ll show you the absolute easiest way to make box joints without having to build a complicated jig.
Box joints are a strong, sturdy, and attractive alternative to dovetail joints. While a through dovetail joint is stronger than a box joint, it's also more complicated to create. But, as you'll see in the following steps, a perfectly-fitting. clean box joint is easy to create very with a simple box joint jig for your table saw.
finger joint woodworking
The marking out and cutting of the comb joint is pretty much exactly the same as cutting a dovetail joint. except all fingers cut square as opposed to the pins. and tails of the dovetail that cut with a slope so that they interlock with each other. For the purposes of this project we will be marking out. and cutting a single finger joint as this will best prove the processes involved. Once you have mastered this you can then progress on to featuring more.
Place one piece of timber on a flat surface and then place the other at 90° at the very end. Using a pencil or marking knife, mark a line across the face of the timber that is lying flat. This will mark the depth of your cut.
The next task is to transfer the line that you made in the above step all the way around your piece of timber. To do this, use a marking knife or pencil and a carpenters tri-square.
If you don’t have a marking knife thats fine a pencil will do but if you can get hold of one, use this. Not only does this mark your lines more . but it also has the added bonus of scoring the timber that inturn breaks the wood fibre. that will help to prevent breakout when sawing and will also help you to get your cut started much easier.
Now that we know our depth we can mark out our first finger. As we are only forming a simple joint we will be marking out only one finger so we can divide the width in to three. with the middle third being our finger.
Measure the total width and divide by three and mark the middle third on the top edge of your timber. Repeat this also on the opposite side. Measure and mark the same points on your depth line also on both sides of the timber and then using a straight edge. join up the points between teh top edge and your depth line.
To prevent any movement while your cutting, grip your timber in an upright position in a vice or Workmate. making sure that it is level. If not then you can go off-line when cutting.
To make your cut, the best tool to use is a tenon saw as this will ensure that the cut is straight and true. but you can also use a bandsaw or table saw if you have access to one.
Using saws and other sharp cutting objects can be dangerous. so please make sure you take the necessary safety precautions e.g. gloves. eye protection, old clothes (but nothing loose. that can catch in a powered saw), blade guards around saws etc….
With the timber gripped. saw down through both of your vertical lines down to the depth line. and then flip the timber 90° both ways in your vice or Workmate. cutting along the depth or shoulder line to remove both waste sections.
Once done, you should now have your first finger cut and ready to go.
With your first finger ready to go, the final task is to cut out the fingers on your second piece of timber. This is exactly the same steps as you carried out for your first finger. only this time instead of removing the waste timber from either side, the centre removed.
Start by placing the timber you will be working with down on a flat and level surface. Place the first piece of timber down on the second piece. with the top of the finger facing down on your second timber section. and position the edge of the finger on the very top edge of your second timber.
Using a pencil, draw around the three remaining edges of the finger.
Next, use a pencil or marking knife and a carpenters tri-square. and mark the finger depth across the full width of your timber. and then proceed to transfer this line. all the way around the timber to define the full depth of the cuts you will need to make.
The final task is to mark the centre waste section to removed. across teh top of the timber and also on the opposite side to your first marks. so that you then know exactly what you need to cut out.
There are several ways you can do this. you can either use a tri-square to continue your lines over the top. and down the opposite side or you can measure and mark points. and then join them up with a steel ruler or your tri-square.
The choice on how you do this is up to you. make sure that your marks are 100% accurate so that your cuts will also be straight and true.
As we did above, grip your timber upright in your vice or Workmate and use a tenon saw to cut down both centre lines. Take your time and don’t rush! Ensure that both lines are straight and true and that you do not cut down too far. Additionally, make sure that you are cutting on the right side of your lines.
As we have before mentioned, the tricky part with cutting pieces out of timber that are between. other pieces is chopping along the bottom so that the unwanted piece can removed.
There are several ways to do this but in most cases the best way is to use a coping saw. Due to the fact that the blade is very thin it can turned as you cut. so that you can get it in to a position to cut down the base of the centre waste timber.
To those new to this it can take a little time and patience to get the blade in the right place and also while you’re cutting. to keep the blade straight and aligned with your cutting lines. take your time and you will find you will get there .
Once done, the waste chunk should then fall out.
Tidying up and Fitting Your Finger Joint Together
If all has gone to plan you should now have two cut finger joints and the bulk of the word should now done. All that left to do is fit them together.
If you have made your cuts as sharp and accurate as possible, they should fit together very . When pushing them together there should be some slight resistance. but if you need to put a fair bit of pressure on to them. or even start knocking them together with a hammer then you will need to make some adjustments.
A s you are putting the joint together take note of any proud areas on each of the joints. or rough sections that may be causing some friction as these will need to cleaned up.
With these offending areas identified. place your timber on a flat surface so that they are accessible. and clamp your work up toprevent any movement.
Using a very sharp bevel edge chisel, position its tip above the problem area. and use a carpenters mallet to tap the chisel down. If the chisel is sharp enough you should be able to remove very thin slivers of material. and after each removal, refit and test.
Removing unwanted timber with sharp chisel
Using a sharp chisel to remove fine slivers of unwanted timber
It is important to test fit your joints as you don’t want to remove too much as once its gone its gone!
For any very fine adjustments use some fine grit sandpaper such as 320 grit or more. Use the paper in conjunction with a sanding block to keep everything flat.
With everything now fitting. apply some glue to each joint where the faces will touch and then fit together and clamp up until teh glue has dried.
wood finger joint supplier - Yueshan
The finger joint is, among other purposes. often usedto make planks longer and for construction of make box shapes, box sides. You will need special tools to make these connections for wood joint jig.Fitting is very precise. if there is a slight fault. then your parts will not fit together.For that reason it is a wood joining method. which is very strong but only suitable if you have the right machinery. Using a regular power tools saw blade instead of a dado blade, very fine finger joints can cut with my hand tools saw jig. This one done with some pieces of scrap maple. I make one end to end fingerjointed several pieces so I could use scraps of hardwood for the ledge. that goes along the bottom edge of the rails on my queen size bed
Sawn timber extended using finger joints when there is a need for pieces of timber. that are longer than normal or certain properties required of the timber. By using finger joints, it is possible to produce, for example. pieces of router bit sawn timber that made completely of heartwood. completely knotless and very straight. Such special products are usually used in the furniture and window industries.
Finger-jointed sawn timber is available with a cut finger sawn surface, dimensioned and planed. The largest length varies between different manufacturers, but is usually 12 – 14 metres. The manufacture of finger-jointed sawn timber. meant for use in construction is subject to a permit. and such timber must carry a stamp indicating that finger-jointing. by the product standard has used.
The joints, being very tight, firmed up fast, so that within a few minutes of me assembling the finger joints pieces together. they became very rigid and I could put them on the jointer to smooth out the resulting rails.
The problem with doing a finger joint with all square fingers is that the largest joinery method strength of the joint. is the strength of the fingers. But the fingers can only be half as strong as the pieces of wood they join. seeing that half cut away for the other fingers.
wood finger joint supplier - Yueshan would like to give you some buying tips. When buying finger joined material, the fingers are always trapezoidal, or triangular. If the glue is strong enough, and the angle narrow enough, this can produce a joint that is as strong as the surface area wood it joins.
For certain types of woodworking joints such as edge-to-edge joints, miter joints, T-joints. and corner joints, there is hardly a better choice than biscuit joints. Properly-cut biscuit joints are strong and accurate, particularly. when cutting slots with a woodworking tool called a biscuit joiner (or plate joiner).
Wood Biscuits sometimes referred to as Wood Plates. or Wood Wafers used for edge or corner-jointing. The wood biscuits fitted into slots usually created with a biscuit joiner. When the biscuit comes into contact with a water based glue it swells thus creating a 'locked' joint.
A biscuit is a thin, oval-shaped piece of compressed wood shavings. typically made from beech wood. When glued into slots precisely cut by the biscuit cutter. and the moisture from the glue causes the biscuit to swell and tighten the joint.
As a general rule, try to use the largest size biscuit possible. as this will provide the greatest amount of strength to the joint. In most cases, use #20 biscuits, but when working on narrower material. switch to smaller biscuits where appropriate.
About The advantages and disadvantages of the finger joint board . and the melamine fiberboard. what is the difference between the two processing techniques? introduced here to help everyone. Although only knowing the price can better control the decoration budget. but do not forget to control the quality while controlling the budget. For more inquiries, please surf on www.yspanel.com
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